Ikkat (also written as Ikat) is one of India's most celebrated handwoven fabric
traditions — and one of the most technically complex in the world. It is not a print.
It is not an embroidery. Ikkat is a weave, and the pattern is created before a single
thread goes onto the loom.
Here is a complete guide to understanding Ikkat — what it is, how it is made, the
different types, and why it looks the way it does.
What makes Ikkat different from other fabrics?
Most printed fabrics work this way: weave the cloth first, then print the pattern onto
it. Ikkat works the opposite way. The yarns are dyed first — in a precise, calculated
pattern — and then woven. The design emerges only as the weaving progresses and the
dyed threads align.
This is why Ikkat has its characteristic slightly blurred, feathered edge to every
motif. That softness is not a flaw — it is the proof of authenticity. It is the natural
result of threads shifting fractionally during weaving. No machine-printed fabric can
replicate it accurately.
How is Ikkat made? The resist-dyeing process explained
The weaver begins by calculating exactly where each colour must appear in the finished
fabric. The yarns are then tied (resisted) at precise points using thread or rubber
bands, and dipped into dye. The tied sections resist the dye and remain undyed.
After dyeing, the ties are removed, the threads are re-tied for the next colour, and the
process repeats — once for every colour in the design. A three-colour Ikkat requires
three rounds of tying and dyeing per set of threads. Only then are the threads mounted
on the loom and woven.
The weaver must constantly check and adjust the threads during weaving to ensure the
dyed sections align correctly and the pattern emerges as intended. A single kurta length
of fabric can take days to weeks depending on the complexity of the design.
What are the different types of Ikkat?
Warp Ikkat — only the lengthwise threads (warp) are resist-dyed. The weft threads are
a single solid colour. The pattern appears as vertical stripes and geometric shapes.
Most common type. Found widely in Pochampally and Ilkal.
Weft Ikkat — only the crosswise threads (weft) are dyed. More difficult than warp Ikkat
because the pattern forms gradually as weaving progresses and requires constant
adjustment by the weaver.
Double Ikkat — both warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving. The most
complex, most time-consuming, and most skilled form of Ikkat in the world. Pochampally
(Telangana) is one of only three regions globally where Double Ikkat is practised.
A single Double Ikkat saree can take a family of four up to ten days to complete.
Where is Ikkat woven in India?
Pochampally, Telangana — India's most celebrated Ikkat weaving village. Known for
geometric double Ikkat designs in silk and cotton. GI tagged as Pochampally Ikat.
Sambalpuri, Odisha — known for traditional motifs including shankha (conch), chakra
(wheel), phula (flower) and elephant designs. Sambalpuri Ikkat is characteristically
rich and dense in design.
Ilkal, Karnataka — known for combining Ikkat weave with a characteristic weft-heavy
border. Often features traditional temple border designs.
Patan, Gujarat — home to Patola, the Double Ikkat silk tradition of Gujarat, considered
among the most precious handwoven textiles in India.
What does Telia Rumal Ikkat mean?
Telia Rumal is a specific double Ikkat tradition from Andhra Pradesh and Telangana,
where the yarns are treated with oil (sesame oil — "telia" means oily) before dyeing.
This treatment gives the fabric a characteristic lustre and drape. Traditional Telia
Rumal used only three colours: red, black and white in geometric designs. It is now
very rare.
At Rush Me Fashions — our Ikkat collection
Our Ikkat collection is the heart of what we do at Rush Me Fashions. We source
handwoven Ikkat directly from weavers in Pochampally, Sambalpuri, and Ilkal — single
Ikkat, Double Ikkat, and Mercerised Ikkat (with a silky lustre finish).
What makes our pieces different is what we do after the fabric arrives with us. We
design each kurta as a collage of Indian craft — combining an Ikkat weave from Odisha
with Lambani embroidery from Karnataka, or Ikkat from Telangana with Dana handwork
from Gujarat. Crafts that have coexisted for centuries, brought together in one garment.
Designed entirely in our Pune studio.
Maximum 50 pieces per design. No repeats. No restocking. If you see something you love
in our Ikkat collection, it is worth not waiting.
Shop our Handwoven Ikkat collection → Handwoven Ikkat Kurtas, Dresses & Trousers | Rush Me Fashions – rushmefashions.com
